The Science Behind Surfing:
What is a wave?
When a winds from a storm system starts to blow over the water, which is transferring energy from the air molecules to the water molecules. Conservation of Energy; states that matter can not be created or destroyed, only turn into new forms. The wave is the physical appearance of of the water molecules moving up and down transferring the energy. Stronger winds make bigger waves, bigger (longer wave length) waves travel faster than smaller waves. You can make your own miniature waves by blowing across the surface of a pan of water.
The wave us surfers want, are the waves that are closer to shore and we can surf on. When the waves move hit a reef, sandbar, cobblestone, etc. the force jacks up and the wave face starts to shift forward. Waves break at a 53 to 66 degree angle and turn into ridable surfaces for us surfers.
Newt's Surf Co.
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